Cru & Cellar

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Three glasses of red wine, an open notebook, and a fountain pen on a desk by a tall apartment window.
The tasting desk of critic Alison Verplank in New York. Cru & Cellar

Media

Critic Detects Note Of Crushed Rock, Has Never Crushed Rock

Graphite also detected; slate encountered once, at a restaurant, on a plate.

Publishing a tasting note that described a pronounced minerality of wet stone and crushed rock beneath the fruit, critic Alison Verplank confirmed Tuesday that she has never crushed a rock, smelled a crushed rock, or been near a rock that was being crushed, sources reported. “You know it when you get it,” said Verplank, who does not know it. “It’s not literal. Nobody thinks there’s gravel in the glass.” Verplank added that she had also detected graphite, which she has not smelled, and wet slate, which she has, at a restaurant, on a plate.